If you’ve ever seen photos of Vietnamese women wearing long, flowing dresses over wide-legged pants, chances are you’ve admired the ao dai. Elegant, graceful, and deeply symbolic, the ao dai is Vietnam’s national dress — and more than that, a cultural icon.
In this post, ao dai MYAN will take you through the origins of ao dai, its symbolism, how it has evolved, and why it’s still so relevant in modern fashion. Whether you’re planning to wear one, buy one, or are simply curious about this beautiful garment, here’s everything you need to know.
1. What is an ao dai?
The ao dai is a traditional Vietnamese garment worn by women (and sometimes men), consisting of a long, fitted tunic with side slits, worn over wide-legged pants. It’s often made from silk or other flowing materials, and it accentuates the natural shape of the body without being overly revealing.
In Vietnamese, “ao” means shirt or dress, and “dai” means long — literally translating to “long dress.”
2. A history of ao dai
A brief journey through ao dai history. Source: Vietcetera
2.1. Ao Giao Linh – The earliest form (17th Century)
The earliest recorded ancestor of the ao dai is Ao Giao Linh – a robe-style garment worn with a long black skirt and a colorful silk sash. It featured overlapping front panels and wide sleeves, influenced by Chinese Han-style clothing. This version was often worn by both men and women and reflected the modesty and layering aesthetics of the time.
2.2. Ao Tu Than and Ao Ngu Than (18th century – Early 20th century)
As society evolved, so did the dress. Ao Tu Than, meaning “four-part dress,” became the go-to attire for rural women. Designed with practicality in mind, it featured two front panels that could be tied together, usually worn with a long skirt, a "Yem" (a traditional undergarment), and a silk belt. Earth-tone fabrics helped hide dirt from farm work and daily activities.
Meanwhile, upper-class women in cities opted for a more refined design: Ao Ngu Than, the “five-part dress.” Though similar in structure, it had two sewn front panels, two back panels, and a hidden fifth flap symbolizing the wearer's core values. This version was usually made from finer fabrics and worn with more elaborate accessories — a clear mark of status and refinement.
2.3. The Le Mur ao dai – A Parisian twist (1930s)
In the late 1930s, Vietnamese artist Cát Tường (Le Mur) introduced a revolutionary update to the traditional ao dai. Influenced by French fashion, he created a body-hugging silhouette with Western touches like puffed sleeves, sweetheart necklines, and decorative buttons. Worn with white trousers and heels, the Le Mur Ao Dai redefined Vietnamese femininity.
Though considered daring and even controversial at the time, it became popular among fashion-forward women in Hanoi and marked the first modern interpretation of the ao dai.
2.4. Ao Dai Mrs. Nhu (Late 1950s – Early 1960s)
One of the most talked-about versions of the ao dai came from Madame Tran Le Xuan, commonly known as Mrs. Nhu — the First Lady of South Vietnam. Her version introduced an open neckline, often with floral embroidery or patterned silk, and was seen as both modern and provocative.
While some admired its elegance and practicality in the southern heat, others criticized it for breaking traditional norms. Still, it played a role in pushing the boundaries of how ao dai could be interpreted.
2.5. The tight-waisted ao dai (1960s – 1970s)
In the decades that followed, the ao dai embraced a more form-fitting shape. Tailored waists, high collars, and streamlined panels became the standard. Urban women in Saigon styled them with bouffant hairdos and bold lipstick, blending tradition with modern glamour.
A shorter version of the ao dai — with the side panels ending around the knees — became popular among female students, offering greater mobility while still honoring cultural dress codes. This style became iconic in school uniforms across southern Vietnam.
2.6. Contemporary ao dai (1975 – Present)
Since the 1980s, the ao dai has experienced a quiet revival. Though everyday wear in cities became more Westernized, the ao dai remained a staple for special occasions like weddings, New Year celebrations, and graduations.
Today’s modern ao dai comes in countless variations:
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Materials: From traditional silk to linen, organza, velvet, and even denim.
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Designs: Open backs, sleeveless cuts, high or low collars, asymmetrical hems.
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Styling: Mixed with silk or linen trousers, paired with minimalist accessories, or styled for modern occasions.
Yet, no matter the update, the ao dai continues to represent Vietnamese elegance, resilience, and cultural pride.
3. When and why Vietnamese people wear ao dai?
In Vietnam, the ao dai isn’t just worn for style — it’s a garment deeply tied to memory, celebration, and identity. For many Vietnamese people, putting on an ao dai is more than getting dressed. It’s a way of honoring culture, family, and life’s meaningful moments.
3.1. Weddings and engagement ceremonies
The ao dai is a must for traditional Vietnamese weddings. Brides often wear bright red or soft pastel ao dai made of silk or brocade, heavily embroidered with phoenixes, dragons, lotuses, or peonies — symbols of love, luck, and harmony.
During engagement ceremonies, both families may wear ao dai to show respect and unity. To a Vietnamese bride, wearing ao dai on her wedding day is about more than beauty. It’s about representing grace, tradition, and the honor of joining two families.
3.2. Tet – Lunar New Year celebrations
Every spring, as the country celebrates Tet, people of all ages put on new ao dai to welcome a fresh start.
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Women and girls wear ao dai in red, yellow, or floral patterns to attract luck and happiness.
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Men and boys often choose blue, green, or brocade-style ao dai paired with Vietnamese traditional headdress.
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Families dress in matching ao dai for family photos and visits to ancestors’ graves or temples.
Wearing ao dai during Tet represents renewal, prosperity, and respect for tradition. It also adds festive color to streets and markets across Vietnam.
3.3. Graduations and school uniforms
In many high schools — especially in southern Vietnam — female students wear white ao dai as a uniform, typically from 10th to 12th grade. The white ao dai symbolizes purity, youth, and the beauty of learning.
For many Vietnamese, seeing rows of students cycling to school in white ao dai is a nostalgic and iconic image of youth.
In Vietnam and among Vietnamese communities abroad, ao dai is often worn at graduation ceremonies to mark the transition from one life stage to another with pride.
3.4. Cultural festivals and performances
Whether it’s a folk dance, a poetry recital, or a national holiday parade, performers and participants often wear ao dai to reflect Vietnamese identity. Artists may even choose ao dai with regional motifs — like lotus flowers for the South or imperial patterns for the Central region.
In overseas Vietnamese communities, ao dai is also a key part of Tet festivals, Mid-Autumn celebrations, and heritage events, allowing the next generation to connect with their roots.
3.5. Diplomatic and formal occasions
Ao dai is frequently worn by Vietnamese diplomats, flight attendants, teachers, and pageant contestants to represent the nation.
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Vietnam Airlines has used the ao dai as its official flight attendant uniform for decades.
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During international expos or beauty pageants, ao dai is proudly showcased as Vietnam’s national costume — combining elegance with cultural symbolism.
In these settings, the ao dai becomes a symbol of Vietnam’s global presence and soft power, representing the country with dignity and pride.
3.6. Everyday life (And special moments in between)
Although ao dai is mostly reserved for special occasions today, some professions — such as teachers or receptionists in cultural spaces — still wear it as daily attire.
Some women also choose to wear ao dai for portraits, family gatherings, or simply to feel connected to their heritage. It’s a garment that can turn an ordinary day into something meaningful.
3.7. More than just an ao dai
To many Vietnamese, wearing an ao dai is not just about tradition. It’s about feeling beautiful in your culture, showing care for your roots, and expressing pride in who you are.
It’s an outfit that spans generations — from grandmothers in silk ao dai, to schoolgirls in white, to brides in embroidered red. Though styles may change, the ao dai continues to hold a timeless place in the heart of Vietnam.
4. Choosing the right ao dai for you
Whether you're traveling to Vietnam, attending a cultural event, or simply exploring Vietnamese heritage, wearing an ao dai is a beautiful way to connect with tradition. But since the ao dai is a highly personal and symbolic garment, choosing the right one can be a meaningful — and slightly tricky — process. Here are some helpful tips, especially if you're a first-time buyer or from outside Vietnam:
4.1. Fit is everything
Ao dai is known for its close-fitting, elegant silhouette. It’s meant to follow the natural curves of your body — not too tight, but never loose.
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Ready-to-wear ao dai may not fit perfectly, especially for foreign body shapes, so tailored or custom-made ao dai is strongly recommended.
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Most ao dai shops in Vietnam will take your measurements and create a fitted version within a few days. Many online Vietnamese designers also offer international shipping with size customization — just be ready to provide your bust, waist, hip, height, and weight.
A well-fitted ao dai should feel comfortable when you sit, walk, or raise your arms slightly — elegance should never sacrifice movement.
4.2. Consider the occasion
Different occasions call for different types of ao dai. Choosing the right color, fabric, and level of decoration helps show cultural sensitivity and personal intention.
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Weddings: Go for rich fabrics like silk or brocade with embroidery, sequins, or traditional motifs. Red, gold, pastel pink, or ivory are all appropriate.
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Lunar New Year (Tet): Bright, cheerful colors (red, yellow, orange) or floral prints symbolize joy and prosperity.
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Photoshoots & cultural events: Consider ao dai with hand-painted details or modern prints. Floral, bird, or landscape motifs are common.
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Formal events: A plain or subtly patterned ao dai in silk or crepe with high neck and long sleeves conveys grace and respect.
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Everyday wear: Lighter materials like linen or cotton, and sleeveless or short-sleeved variations, are more practical — though less traditional.
4.3. Choose your fabric carefully
Each material gives the ao dai a different mood and feel:
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Natural silk: Luxurious, elegant, and ideal for formal or ceremonial events.
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Linen or cotton: Breathable and modern, great for hot weather or casual wear — though less traditional in formality.
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Chiffon, organza, or lace: Often used for contemporary or fashion-forward styles, sometimes with inner linings for modesty.
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Velvet or brocade: Heavier, often used in northern Vietnam or for winter occasions — very regal and vintage.
If you're unsure, classic Vietnamese silk is always a safe and beautiful choice.
4.4. Know your neckline and sleeve options
While the traditional ao dai features a high Mandarin-style collar and long sleeves, modern versions vary:
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High collar: Classic, elegant, and formal.
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Rounded or open neck: More relaxed, sometimes seen in wedding or fashion-forward designs.
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Sleeveless or short sleeves: Comfortable for tropical climates, but usually not worn in temples or formal rituals.
4.5. Cultural tips for foreign wearers
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If you're visiting temples or attending a traditional ceremony, avoid sleeveless or overly modern ao dai.
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It’s polite to wear full-length pants underneath, even if the top has high side slits.
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Avoid overly tight or revealing versions in solemn or formal settings.
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Asking a local friend or host for advice on color and style is always appreciated.
Wearing an ao dai as a non-Vietnamese person is a meaningful way to show respect and admiration for the culture. When chosen thoughtfully, it’s not just a beautiful outfit — it’s a heartfelt gesture that honors tradition.
5. Where to buy ao dai?
If you’re looking for a beautiful, well-fitted ao dai, ao dai MYAN is a great place to start. MYAN specializes in made-to-measure designs crafted from natural fabrics like silk, velvet and linen. Each piece is carefully hand-sewn and often features personalized details — including hand embroidery, custom sizing, and even bespoke patterns based on your ideas.
Whether you’re shopping for a wedding, a cultural event, or simply want to own a piece of Vietnamese elegance, MYAN makes it easy to order online with free nationwide shipping. We offer friendly and 24/7 customer support to guide you through the measurement process and help you design your dream ao dai from anywhere in the world.
The ao dai is more than just a piece of clothing — it’s a living tradition. Whether worn in Vietnam or abroad, it continues to evolve with time, representing both beauty and identity. If you’re curious about Vietnamese culture or looking for something unique and meaningful to wear, the ao dai is a perfect blend of art, history, and style.
